Another round of menswear fashion weeks are over, but we’ve been busy exploring the collections for inspiration and the latest trends. We’re excited about the influx of tartan, the vibrant range of colour, and the constant nods to age-old uniform designs.
The collections are a constant source of inspiration to us, and in turn, uniform and workwear are a constant resource for fashion designers. Here, we’ve put together a selection of our favourite trends and uniform or workwear nods from the AW18 menswear shows.
Dolce & Gabbana
Dolce & Gabbana’s collection this season brought together the uniform of Michael Jackson with the Italian duo’s signature flare for dramatic brocade and embroidery. With tailoring that relied heavily on suit tails, the collection was a masculine and majestic affair.
What’s not to like about Jeremy Scott’s Emcee-from-Cabaret and Madonna-Blonde-Ambition-Tour mash-up? Scott never fails to wow his legion of fans with his reimagination of iconic pop culture moments. With elements of fetish wear and an enormous leather budget, this was one of Scott’s best collections yet.
A Cold Wall
A Cold Wall is the London-based streetwear brand by Matthew Ross, founded in 2015. For this season, Ross showed a collection of simple, clean separates in military vehicle colours, jazzed up with intricate utilitarian accessories: backpacks with endless straps, cords and pulls.
John Lawrence Sullivan
John Lawrence Sullivan introduced a theme that became a trend throughout the weeks, presenting models who were a fusion of cowboys and 1980s FBI agents. Sullivan’s guys wore combinations of denim and leather, with shirts with embroidered flowers and two-colour-blocked jeans.
It was Kim Jones’ swansong and one that won’t be forgotten easily. It might have been a menswear show, but the real stars were Jones’ pals Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss, who escorted him on his final lap. The collection itself had a host of uniform references: Jones’ models appeared like space cowboys, wearing oversized jackets with utility pockets and diminutive cross-body bags.
Miuccia Prada ransacked the uniform archives again this season. Her models wore bucket hats, tailored trench coats, workwear-esque bomber jackets and stunning leather coats with contrasting seams. All the looks were finished with office worker/FBI agent security passes – notice a theme appearing?
…And so to Xander Zhou, where this interesting theme continued. Actually, as Zhou shows in London, you saw it here first. His models looked like futuristic detectives, with crisp, rigid workwear jackets and ill-fitting-on-purpose shirts and trousers. We like his digital printed cosmic ties and embroidered patches, presumably from some rogue task force fighting enemies in the future.
To Dsquared2, where any common sense is thrown straight outta the window: this season was no exception. Feast your eyes on these bonafide cowboys wearing Western shirts, neckerchiefs, tapered trousers and jeans, and cowhide-trimmed shirts and jackets. Yee-haw!
We absolutely love MSGM’s ode to the American worker. We got hints of uniform details from institutions like the US postal service; models wore baggy jumpsuits and matching separates in workwear colours: khaki, red and pullman brown, made famous by UPS.
We’ll never not include Versace in our menswear round-ups – or womenswear round-ups for that matter. We’re saving for a Versace-branded football scarf – another trend we’ve seen gaining momentum over the last few seasons (and it’s given us an idea for a blog post…) This season Donatella drenched her models in lavish, gaudy, clashing fabrics and accessories. University stripes? Check! Patchwork jackets? Check! Tartan? Check! (pun very much intended)