Field Notes

Uniformity at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology, New York

05.09.2016

Last month we were longing to be in San Francisco to visit the Fashion in Flight exhibition at the SFO Museum. This month we’re longing to be on the East Coast, as the Fashion Institute of Technology New York presents Uniformity, a unique exhibition charting the influence of uniform on fashion.

Some consider uniform to be the antithesis of high fashion: while the former is functional and often traditional, the latter promotes constant change and creativity, often abandoning the need for any kind of comfort or functionality whatsoever.

Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT

So, why do we constantly see uniform elements on the catwalk? This theme is amongst many explored in this groundbreaking exhibition. Designers have, for decades, drawn inspiration from uniform and workwear elements. From the archetypal uniforms – the pilot, the soldier, the sportsman or woman, right through to the McDonald’s uniform reimagined at Moschino, what people wear to work has always worked on the catwalk.

The exhibition also looks at the social role of uniforms over time; uniforms that are so familiar that they are often overlooked, yet are overt symbols of particular vocations or social stereotypes. The exhibition is organised into four distinct categories: military, work, school and sport, using over 70 garments to explore this enduring theme.

Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT

Here are some of our favourite pieces and themes in the exhibition.

Fashion garments are presented alongside their uniform counterparts, such as this football uniform from around 1920, presented with a Geoffrey Beane dress made from silk and sequins. Astonishingly, the latter was produced in 1967!

Football uniforms: (left) c. 1920, (right) Geoffrey Beene, “football jersey” dress, AW67!
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT

No uniform/fashion exhibition would be complete without the inclusion of an archetypal Jean Paul Gaultier breton number. Here it’s presented alongside a Sacai dress from 2015.

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Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT

Of course, the exhibition features the now iconic Moschino/McDonald’s-inspired collection, married with a 1976 uniform by Stan Herman.

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Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT

Karl Lagerfeld is no stranger to the use of the uniform at Chanel, covering everything from the air hostess to the supermarket checkout girl. Key Chanel pieces appear in the exhibition, including a ‘Brasserie Gabrielle’ ensemble from AW15 and a logo bow-tie from the same collection.

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Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
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Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
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Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT

Rare uniform pieces are also on display, including these TWA flight attendant uniforms, designed by Stan Herman in 1975.

Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT

The exhibition runs until 19 November, for more information visit the FITNYC website.

Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
Image courtesy Eileen Costa/ The Museum at FIT
See alsoExhibition Fashion Moschino New York Uniform