The piece of couture in a uniform? The outfit that is without doubt photographed the most?
It has to be the doorman’s coat… from satirising in Wes Anderson movies and the modus operandi in the finest New York establishments. It’s the one piece that designers will crave to collaborate on adding a unique piece to the wardrobe. You will see these uniforms standing outside prestigious establishments all over the world.
Our continued commitment to excellence is not more appreciated in a doorman’s coat. The creation of a product, that is in some instances, so heavy it’s very difficult to even lift up! This is one area where the British weather serves up the perfect environment where you are able to use the best of British wool, perfect for the inclement climate.
Many of our designs are a feat in technical ambition, for a doorman his coat is a bit like his office, the climatic control and thermostat needs to be right and so with some of our lighter coats we add a detachable liner which is padded for extra warmth. We also have a very clever pocket function that in some instances goes through two garments (e.g the liner and the coat pocket) to enable the individual to access his trouser pocket if he needs a tissue for example.
I love the traditional look of a doorman however we have always used this garment as an expression of the brand we are designing for and the extension of its personality, in fact it seems that many doormen (in the main) have managed to avoid early retirement, and to be replaced by younger folk as many are sought after in new openings simply because they are beloved by regular guests.
Our coat for (the now) Kempinski Hotel was inspired by Ralph Lauren’s fireman’s coat, we used beautiful wool from Abraham Moon and in order to hold the metal clips in place we had to develop special metal plates which sit between the layers of fabric to hold them in place. This is topped off with an incredible hat by Noel Stuart with a patient leather trim, the coat is so popular that many guests have request to purchase the item!
Our latest addition to our collection is the London Coliseum for which we are proud to have developed door persons coats with designs that account for anthropomorphic shape and are designed for male and female staff to wear with pride, beautiful navy wool was developed into a hybrid of a pea coat and a car coat, with a super wide collar, bespoke gold buttons and trim. The buttons resembled the shape of the globe at the top of the Coliseum and a London landmark, the pea coat pockets, as well as the practical warmth they provide are in a position to give comfort if standing for long periods at a time.
Although we are incredibly proud of our coats, for the likes of Heckfield Place Mayfair Townhouse, ( University Arms and South place Hotel to name a few, we are not the only ones that are beautiful in their ambition from the incredible coat by Richard Quinn at Annabel’s to the Burberry take over at Harrods with the Burberry check In “Knights blue” or the rebellious George Cox and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy collaboration with the Theatre Royal Dury Lane.
Its interesting to note that many Doorman’s coats remain relatively unchanged since the early 1900’s the original based on miliary great coats the bright trims and livery giving a ceremonial standing, it is a short moment in time where you are aware that someone is greeting you and opening a doorway in order that you have a pleasant first impression. It marks the beginning of your stay and whether the visit be for business of pleasure you sense you will be looked after and cherished.